Tuesday 31 May 2011

Hussein Chalayan



Hussein Chalayan's Inertia collection and exhibition are an amazing demonstration of successfully creating a feeling of movement in a garment. The windswept effect not only affects how we perceive the clothing, but also the environment they are in.

From a dissemination perspective, I think having supporting objet in an exhibition setting works really well. Elevating the space from a retail feel, the sculptures are also an opportunity to explore the concept or research being explored without being constrained by the body or specific materials.

References:

img1 http://pichaus.com/design-spring-projects-chalayan-@9d8124752199f51da9375c4089c97f5c/

Irving Penn



Irving Penn's photography, particularly his work with Balenciaga, has an exceptional felling of 'woosh' as Peter and I have decided to call it. That is, a sense of the fabric having a life of its own away from the body, traveling independently if you will. A sense of movement, not like rippling drape, but like directional volume - volume which draws the eye across space, thereby creating a feeling of movement.

It is unclear to what extent the garments themselves possess this quality, or to what extent it is created by the photography. Irrespective, the dynamic images are beautiful inspiration for creating garments with structure, volume, and movement.

Yohji Yamamoto



Yohji Yamamoto's sculptural garments show the beautiful and incredible things that can be done in this field - that is, when it is desired for a piece of clothing to depart from the body, however briefly.

The top picture is a photograph by Nick Knight. The sculptural nature of the garment is what I identify with within this image - it is ambiguous whether the garment itself exists in this capacity or whether the method of silhouette depiction in fact imbues it in the garment. The garment sticks out amazingly - supported by the tulle yet itself so minimal, structural and impossible. It jars visually (in a good way) because it isn't following the normal set of physics we interpret the world through: it defies gravity.

Image number two is interesting: I love that it is called a sculpture in the blurb, rather than a garment (which it is). This dress (or skirt/top combo) has me practically in raptures - oh! the layers swinging against each other, pitching forward, leaning back - the two fabrics interacting yet so separate in colour and velocity. Ah!

References:

img1 http://wunderbuzz.co.uk/people/nick-knight/